You get that gorgeous new blue betta. The one with the fancy fins. And he’s everything you expected for the first year. He’s so colorful. He gobble up every bit of food in sight. He flares with such energy when he catches a glimpse of himself.
By his second birthday, however, things start to change. His flares don’t reach quite as far, and the reds aren’t quite as bright. Maybe there’s something wrong? No, probably not. That’s just biology working. Knowing where your fish is on the timeline affects how you treat them. Fish are not unchanging thing… They have well defined stages in their lives that need unique attention.
The Life Stages of Betta Fish
This is expressed in chart above starting with microscopic egg stage through to senior years. What it does is help differentiate between true illness (what causes most panic in new owners) and natural course of aging.
Early is the vulnerable time. The hatchlings begin life hanging from their bubble nest wriggling around as they absorb their yolk sacs. They are not really swimming at all since they use the yolk to survive. Then they reach the free-swimming fry stage where they are ready for food but have very small mouth and require something like micro-worms or tiny organisms to feed with. It is delicate and requires careful temperatures and a lot of waiting. If the temperature drops then they will stop developing and probably never recover. Few folks ever witness this part unless they has raised them from eggs. But if you know about it then you understand why your juvies are so sensitive to changes in water quality.
As your betta approaches three months (sub-adult stage), his/her personality explodes. Males becomes aggressive as they figure out that they’re competitors for everything in the tank. This means you need to separate them if they live together. Fin growth happen rapidly. Color intensifies. It’s like an awkward phase but with scales. Think: teenage years.
Between years one and two is prime adulthood. This is glory time. All the colors are at their most vibrant, the fins are fully spread out, and they’re very active. These great fans of yours (if you have any of the halfmoon varieties) can get so heavy and dramatic. But be aware that big fins also mean big costs, namely they’ll tire more quickly and show signs of wear earlier in life different than compact varieties such as plakats. Because their fins aren’t quite as cumbersome, veiltails tend to last longer physically.
Visual: Your fish’s age is indicated by fading colors, beginning on the belly and extending outward. Fins can also be frayed along their edges (not to be confused with rot caused by disease). Rot appears dark and ragged; age wear is clean. They have a reduced appetite, so soak the food or switch to soft foods. Hard pellets are hard for them to chew as they get older; their jaws loses strength.
Older fish has other health concerns as well. The young get velvet disease. The old, organ failure, dropsy. When you see an older betta laying on the bottom, it may simply be because he’s tired. However, if his scales are pinconed (pinecone scales) or he won’t eat at all, that’s an emergency situation.
The trick to prolonging that life span past its usual 3 years is stability. Bettas are very sensitive to water temps. Don’t let them fluctuate much; aim for a consistent ~80 degree F. Stress will shorten their lives, so do what you can to minimize it, such as by using live plants to buffer your water parameters. Because bettas are jumpers (especially when surprised or stressed), they require a secure lid, no exceptions!
Last, What tank? A 5g isn’t a luxurios. It’s a starting point at which chemistry will settle. That said, tiny tanks cause chemistry swings, making fish age faster. Provide room, moderate the flow (so he can rest without exhausting himself swimming), and observe him. If those colors fade, don’t grieve too quickly. Simply tweak your care, feed soft food, and savor the peace of an old man’s company. Meet him on his terms and the ending to this tale changes. You should of seen them in their prime.
