When that happens, it’s generally bad news, you witness a cloud of angelfish fry dissapears and know you’re looking at failure within their first couple of weeks of life. That’s also where the importance of getting nutrition into them immediately kicks in, since those little guys transform from yolk-sac dependent larvae to free swimming predators in a heartbeat (see the infographic above). The timing can make a difference of just twenty-four hours.
This is why understanding your biological clock is as important than purchasing the proper tank. While it might seem like an egg to a 30 cm adult represents a simple process of growing in size, the reality is far more demanding based off the energy required for such growth. Angelfish don’t simply increase linearly over time either. They have a rapid growth phase (months two… Six) followed by a slower growth phase until adulthood. It’s during this fast growth phase that your dietary choices will dictate how healthy an angelfish become.
How to Feed and Care for Baby Angelfish
During these early stages, avoid just feeding dry flake food as they require high-protein foods to meet their caloric needs. Dried foods lack the right densities found in live foods like baby brine shrimp and a properly fed fish will show stark differences compared to those who was malnourished during these formative years. In fact, you could change their relative position in the social hierarchy of group forever if you ignore their care now.
The other half of the equation that’s just as destructive is water quality. These delicate little fish can hardly tolerate any ammonia. Even.25 ppm will tear up their gills quickly enough to shut off growth hormones before they shows signs of lethargy. That’s why the chart strongly suggests frequent water changes while the fry are young. Because a tank this size doesn’t hold much water, uneaten food goes bad in mere hours. Rotting detritus forms toxins that can damage tissue and suppress growth in those poor baby cichlid. So keeping everything spotless is all about preventing chronic stress which kills off immune response and stunts growth.
The ideal water temperature is about twenty-six degrees Celsius (78 Fahrenheit) because it keep them just outside the heat exhaustion zone when oxygen gets dangerously scarce. Hobbyists also fall into the trap of equating living space with floor space when it comes to tank sizing, but since angelfish has extended fins that reach up, they require tall tanks for comfort. When forced to swim around in a shallow tank, their bodies is squeezed together. This results in fin tearing and reduced mobility.
These issues stunt not only their physical growth, but also there psychological development. Unless you move them before they reach the juvenile stage, you’ll end up dealing with all those bullying patterns that result from confined living conditions. The dominant fish will claim all food resources while the subordinate ones stay hidden, eventually causing a size disparity that cannot be resolved. By giving them some vertical space, you can create multiple feeding stations and greatly reduce competition pressure.
As they near adulthood, their behavior change from frenzied feeding to territorial affection and eventually spawning readiness. This typically happens between 12-18 months old if all has gone well. During this time, they shows characteristic breeding tubes and cleaning behavior. So there is much anticipation, after waiting patiently through the initial careful attention… Knowing that you’ll see a pair of them fanning eggs at some point. It’s a rich payoff from the many variables along the way that cannot be overlooked.
The process isn’t easy, moving from a tiny yellow dot on a piece of greenery to an adult couple in full bloom. But when everything falls into place, it could of been very rewarding. It can lead to strong fish that will last more than ten years if you are not in too much of a hurry and respect their timing from day one.
