If you are keeping Neocaridina shrimp, and you spot a dead one in your tank, then you know something went wrong with your water chemistry. You’re not alone if this makes you disappointed, as finding a dead shrimp can be a heartbreaking part of the hobby. It means you need to monitor certain parameters in your tank in order to maintain an environment that is suitable for the shrimp.
Knowing which ones to watch isn’t as important than knowing why those numbers are important. That’s what will save your shrimp colony.
How to Keep Your Shrimp Healthy and Happy
New keepers tend to gravitate towards colored shrimps, red Cherry Shrimp or blue Dream strains for example. No matter what they look like, all morphs has the same chemical requirements. If the water spikes with ammonia, it won’t take long before beauty fades away. Pretty shrimp do not thrive in toxic environments. You cannot raise beautiful offspring in toxic water.
More than anything else, success depends upon stability. The pH must be stable at around 7.0-7.5. It doesn’t need to be an exact decimal place because even slight shifts from perfect cause more problems for shrimps that sudden swings. Carbonate hardness is your buffer against those sudden shifts in pH that can happens when you’re sleeping.
The other major factor is temperature which affects your shrimp’s day-to-day existence. Metabolism slows down in cooler water, making them live longer. In warmer temperatures, their breeding cycle speed up (at the expense of their lifespan). Where you end up on the safe range graph above depends based off whether you’re looking for longevity or reproduction. Because most keepers has a combination of goals, the sweet spot is between 72 and 78 degrees Fahrenheit. This provides both reproduction and good health while avoiding over-stressing the animals.
The biggest mistake newbie hobbyists make is in their water changes. When the tank appears dirty they want to go ahead and siphon out half the tank. This sudden change, known as shock, can kill the Neocaridina because they do not like quick, dramatic changes. To keep the nitrates down and avoid shocking them by changing the osmotic balance, simply swap out ten to twenty percent of the tank each week.
Temperature is very important; you will always want to match your tank’s temperature to the new water going into the tank. Cold shock is a real thing and kills small shrimp (especially juveniles) who might not has the energy reserves to handle a sudden thermal drop. Remineralized reverse osmosis water allows you complete control of this process and removes all unknowns such as chlorine and copper found in tap supplies.
Even tiny traces of copper in an aquarium will pose a threat to shrimps. A medication containing copper (a common component in many fish medications) will eliminate them from a colony overnight if used in a shrimp tank. Always remove shrimp before treating any other species in the tank! It is strictly forbidden without exception. Always take the shrimps out before any treatment. This applies to any other disease issue.
Distress signs like erratic swimming or gasping at the water surface show some sort of trouble (chemical imbalance or lack of oxygen), and you should check your water right away. Acting fast can rescue the remaining population. Patience is key. Don’t skimp on the number of hiding places for molting and grazing areas like moss. Use a pre-filter sponge with your filter to prevent baby shrimp from getting sucked in. Feed sparingly using blanched vegetables or algae wafers and remove leftovers promptly as decaying food will pollute your tank much more quickly than you think. Maintain stable parameters and wait.
You should of waited for stability. Before long you’ll notice those first hatchlings of teeny weeny shrimplets emerging beneath their momma’s tail. That’s quiet satisfaction! It’s all worth the careful monitoring and tweaking.
